Camino Portugues – coastal route

After our first and very successful foray into all things Camino at Easter time, we were seriously hungry for more.....

Pretty much as soon as we got home we started to look into the coastal camino and how we could set about walking the parts we felt we had missed out on. This would mean starting at the handsome seafaring town Vila do Conde where the Central and Coastal routes diverge – which would be far from a hardship....

We had a bit of leave due to us in August and figured that although this could potentially be

challenging weather, the sea breezes from our beloved Atlantic would keep us cool (and safe from the summer sun), affording us regular dips along the way.

As per last time, planning (& training) was pretty thin on the ground. The cursory 6 week lead time seemed to prevail once more.

Accommodations were harder to come by and a little more expensive, this being peak holiday season, but still affordable. Once more we opted to have our bags transferred by Top Santiago (caminosantiago@topsantiago.com) as they had done a sterling job earlier in the year. (The only tricky part if you are using a transfer company such as this seems to be if you are staying in an apartment or a self check in B&B (with no reception), but it can be achieved with a little messaging to and fro).

Of course we also incorporated an obligatory couple of nights taking in the sights and sounds of our favourite city Porto. Perhaps not the best start to a physical challenge but old habits die hard....

The itinerary

Arrival Vila do Conde

Venceslau Wine Boutique (€70) was a bit of a “wow". We arrived at the hotel at lunchtime and fortunately it happened to have a fabulous restaurant and a set menu of the day, which would have been rude to refuse....Having dined heartily we meandered off for the afternoon, revisiting at leisure the sights of this small but handsome town, that we had only managed to peep at during our previous “walk through". On finding the sea, we were soon alerted to the powerful wind coming off the Atlantic...could prove interesting in the morning...

Day 1 25/8 Vila do Conde to Esposende

23.8 – Easy

(Actually 27kms)

We headed off early, keen to get started. Several fortifying espressos and pasteis de nata (

fortunately bakeries open early round here) usually suffice for the first few kms. We faced into the strong coastal winds past hundreds of brightly striped beachhuts and a ripe smelling seaweed farm.

We hit a 7kms stretch without services of any type ( including water fountains), which tested us a little in the heat, but on the plus side, there were numerous spots for a dip, before arriving in Esposende .

This cute seaside town had a festival atmosphere with strings of fairy lights around every corner and the faint strains of music the source of which we never seemed to find. Our bed for the night was a Casa Rural (€58)

Day 2 26/8

Esposende To Viana do Castello

25.5 Medium

After meeting our pal Charlie from the bus stop (great to have the team back together), we headed off. Today's walk was a toughie; lots of different terrains and several frustrating paths that led nowhere.

The day was shrouded in mist sometimes so thick we couldn’t see the sea. However, it was all worth it on arriving at the “pier” which meant an ice cold beer with some salty sea dog types whilst we awaited our boat for the final short stretch to beautiful Viana do Castello.

What a joyful place this turned out to be; handsome architecture and the seaside in season buzz was all around.

Our apartment (City centre apartment €104 for 3 people) turned out to be a retro beauty, fitted out with vintage touches everywhere. Made more intriguing by the fact we had to go into a neighbouring pool hall to ask for Mrs Generoso, in order to pick up the key. This was a super experience giving just the right vibes and atmosphere we like....

Day 3 27/8 Viana do Castello to Caminha

26.8 Medium

(Actually 30kms)

Some key/bag pick up issues on leaving the next morning were alleviated by the fact that our Charlie is a bit of a contortionist and also seemed able to craft a tool out of nothing in order to retrieve our key that we had (too) hastily deposited.

A long but beautiful walk through countryside; a eucalyptus forest, hilltop villages and amazing streams, then back to the coast. Met some lovely folk today (reminding us that we love walking through these tiny villages as on the central route). A kind lady gave us a 4 leaf clover for luck.

Several worrying sights were a scorched and blackened forest and a cascades with no water....

We also got our first dip in the Atlantic. We arrived to our apartment before arriving to the village and eventually after involving local folk and the Guardia Local we managed to gain access. The apartment (Foz Sunshine Apartment €144)was beautifully appointed and definitely luxury (by our standards). The fact that there was a washing machine and a sunny patio was definitely a bonus. The view from the picture window was across the misty landscape to what resembled a mountain poking out of the mist – it took us some

minutes to realise that was Spain! Absolutely beautiful and a real surprise.

A short stroll took us into Caminha; a small and welcoming place built in a semicircle around a central plaza. Restaurants and bars were dotted around the plaza and a pleasing hum of people and smell of fine pizza was in the air.

Day 4 28/8 Caminha

To Oia - 18.6 Easy

(Actually 22kms)

With sadness we bid farewell to Charlie this morning (she had opted her way to kayak up the river towards beautiful Valenca and its fortress). We were also sad to leave Portugal, but a hair raising speedboat taxi ride from a bar at the waters edge to the other coast soon took our mind of things.

We alighted after 15 minutes or so on the opposite side of the water (ie Spain!) where the land started to rise (the view from the previous night's apartment window).

We headed towards the medieval walled fishing town of A Guarda. This place really captured our attention with its atmospheric streets (and bars) which we reckoned could tell many a story. Sad to leave the colourful vista full of so much promise, we eventually tore ourselves away. Fortunately we already had an inkling that our next port of call would be pretty special....

Onto Oia; a tiny, perfectly formed village with a 12th century monastery, a couple of great

restaurants and the fabulous old guest house that was home for the evening – we felt like kings amidst its ancient stone walls and dined like royalty at a nearby restaurant where we ate Galician style hake al fresco, watching the sunset over the water, feeling just a little satisfied with all that life was sharing with us.

Casas Puertas (€67) was our gorgeous home for the evening. Highly recommended for its location, friendly welcome and sheer loveliness. A heartwinning combo of room and village.

Day 5 29/8

Oia to Baiona/Sabaris

c.21 Medium

The route out of Oia follows a cycle path before heading back to the sea. Crossing over a colourful bridge to Mougas. A good stop for refreshments. Another day of amazing contrasts; through forests and villages , climbing high above the lighthouse. Lots of wildlife and great coastal views as you enter past the rather grand parador into the bustling coastal town of Baiona.

Happily it was lunch time and the tapas scene, incredibly busy and vibrant. We stopped a short while for some top notch dishes, before heading for a refreshing swim in crystal waters (nearly losing our rucksacks to the approaching tide). Disaster averted, we made or way the last couple of kms to our hotel in the pleasing suburb of Sabaris and our welcoming, old school style hotel (Hotel Avenida €55).

In the evening we ventured a few short steps from the hotel to a very pleasing wine bar full of local folk enjoying great cuts and copas of vino. A great experience.

Day 6 30/8

Sabaris to Vigo - c. 23 Medium

The views this morning were particularly beautiful largely due to an almost iridescent light across the water and the green of the landscape. We were so happy to be back in Galicia and practically cheered when we saw our first horreo (grain store), so emblematic of the region. Crossing a romanesque bridge into Ramallosa, through coastal villages, past beaches each more beautiful than the last. Great views of the Cies islands keeping us company as we approached the city.

After some mindbending urban stretches, we arrived in the heart of this fascinating seafaring city and our pleasingly traditional Spanish hotel - Ola Ipanema (2× nights €121) – the end of our Camino, this time.

*For those wishing to continue their Camino, the route skirts the city of Vigo with some pleasant woodland and waterside stretches to converge with the central route at Redondela (refer to our original Camino Portugues for sections to Santiago de Compostela)

Vigo

We loved our time in Vigo with its sculptures and it's plant, fountain and music filled travellators that transport you across the city.

The maritime history is everywhere. We were amazed by the generosity we encountered in local bars and people's outward looking, sunny natures, as well as the laidback indie vibe.

Santiago de Compostela

We travelled easily by train from Vigo for a final night in Santiago de Compostela before our flight out the next morning. Well we could hardly pass up the chance to spend a night in this gastronomic power house of a city, could we?!

We stayed in the rather lovely, Santa Filomena (€75) Just 1 mins walk from the fabulous covered market where the eating is so good...a carnival atmosphere ensued as the city was taken over by alegion of colourfully rigged out “minstrels" the meaning of which we have no idea....

The next morning saw us hop on the €2 bus from virtually outside Santa Filomena to the airport.

Our main take aways from our latest adventure:

• There is little or no shade on the route, but sea breezes make it bearable. However hats are

obligatory and don’t forget to apply sunscreen to the back of those legs....

• Choose the time of year according to your preferences. August was prime holiday season

and we loved to see Portuguese and Spanish families on holiday. However, it must be noted

that it is very much a contrast to the much quieter central route (in March).

• Many people complain about Vigo being an “urban sprawl" and not particularly friendly to

“pilgrims". We really enjoyed it. It has great architecture and a spirit all of its own.

• The coastal route spends a lot of time inland, that is why we opted at times to follow what is known as the littoral. This isn't always signposted (as I don't believe it is an official route), but largely consists of staying as close as possible to the sea! We used a help app called Camino Ninja, but I’m not certain it still exists. Even so, there were several points where

paths/directions came to an end and we had to “wing it" – so you may need to be prepared

to do that....

• Our Cicerone guide proved useful (& mostly accurate) once more. The distances seem a little “under" but the “easy to hard” ratings seem fair.