Taste of a place - Naples

We'd never given much thought to the saying "See Naples and die", until we headed on our much anticipated weekend there. People we knew seemed firmly divided into 2 camps when it came to Naples; saying either "you will love it", or alternatively those who regaled us with their negative experiences (usually around muggings, that had happened many years previously). The saying started to take on a bit of an ominous quality.

However, we needn't have worried. It soon became apparent the intended meaning is more akin to the need to see the beauty & magnificence of Naples before one dies (presumably dying in peace because one has seen such beauty).

There is no denying that rubbish and graffiti are both problems here. Everyone will tell you to steer clear of Piazza Garibaldi and the central station, particularly in the hours of darkness and from what we saw, I would agree that this is sound advice. However, elsewhere in the city there is a big police and army presence on the streets, lending a certain sense of reassurance.

One of the first things that strikes the visitor must surely be the vision of Vesuvius looming large over the city like some malevolent sleeping beast. I don't know whether or not this spectre lends a certain sense of "carpe diem" to the neopolitan psyche, but there is a different kind of energy and lust for life here that we have not felt anywhere else...

There is so much to see in Naples, we barely scratched the surface. One of our first stops was the magnificent main square of Piazza del Plebiscito with its dome, columns and monumental buildings. When you look a little closer, you will note that there is a lot of graffiti and the arcades are inhabited by rough sleepers. This put me in mind of how my friend's dad had described Naples as both "heaven and hell" - like most major cities the disparity between the have's and have not's is plain to see.

In contrast, on a corner of Piazza Del Plebiscito, there stands the legendary Gran Caffe Gambrinus, all chandeliers, gilt and charming white jacketed baristas.

We stood at the sweeping bar for a quick espresso, as is customary in these parts.

Other impressive buildings included the Galeria Umberto, a beautiful domed glass shopping gallery. Also home to what is reputed to be the best sfogliatellaria (Sfogliatella Mary) in Naples. Here we sampled both types; the frolla (shortcrust) and the riccia (curly).  Both were delicious, still warm from the oven, citrus scented ricotta filling with more than a whiff of cinnamon. We're fully convinced it would not be possible to better these!

On our first evening we went on a pre booked street food tour. Being new to the city, we wanted to orientate ourselves, particularly as it turned out the "centro storico" is bewilderingly hectic; there are literally 1000s of stalls, bars, trattorias, outlets peddling their wares — it can be a little intense and overwhelming when you have just arrived!

Our friendly local guide, Mario ensured that we got to bypass all the queues in order to try a wide range of street food. Our tour started deliciously, with a taglieri (board) at "Alimentari".   A chance to try real mozzarella di bufala, friarelli (the local bitter brocoli), semi dried tomatoes and so on.

We then moved on to; pizza fritta (fried pizza) from the renowned Sorbillo, frittatine (similar to a deep fried mac n cheese, made of leftover pasta), the ubiquitously fantastic pizza margherita, gelato, sfogliatelle pastries, rum baba and limoncello. We certainly went to bed full that night....

Our comfortable B&B in the upmarket Chiaia district, (Medusa Chiaia 164), was a 5th floor apartment with 3 ensuite rooms onto a central kitchen (unlimited hot drinks and snacks!) Our charming hosts regaled as with recommendations of eateries and a lady visited each morning with fresh, still warm pastries from a local pasticceria.

The next day we wandered down to the harbour with its bobbing boats and Castel dell'ovo which gave us Fort Boyard vibes (you have to be of a certain age to get that reference...).

Our taxi driver, Fernanda from the day before had told us that according to legend, the neopolitans (who are reputedly very superstitious) believe that the fate of the city (ie it not getting destroyed by Vesuvius) lies in the preservation of a mysterious egg that is buried beneath it. Apparently no-one has seen this egg... This is a great spot to watch the sun go down over the Bay of Naples enjoying an evening aperitivo. The spritz is king here; Aperol, Limoncello, Campari. There is even a Napoli blue Maradona spritz for the faithful...

Taking a longer break from the hyperactive city centre you can walk out along the seafront (Lungomare) as far as the port of Mergellina. A very popular lunch spot on a sunny weekend; you can grab a granita or a bottle of beer from a kiosk along the prom and just take your time, admiring fantastic views of the bay.

Due it being February when we visited many of the restaurants at Mergellina harbour were closed, so we nipped in a street or two from the from seafront and found the charming, nautically coloured Osteria Sannazaro.

Here we enjoyed a very good meal of; octopus salad, spaghetti vongole (best clams I have tasted), seafood linguine and super light fritto misto (fried fish). All fresh and tasty.

One of our favourite spots back in the city was the lively Pignasecca street market; an open air feast for all the senses with its triperias (tripe stalls), Bar Maradona ( the undisputed king of Naples) and the fabulous fishmonger Pescheria Azzuri, where you can also grab a cuopo (cone) of freshly fried seafood.

We also saw a cheese shop ("Con mollica o senza") with a queue so massive that it required its own security guard. We hung around long enough to see some of the most impressive sandwiches emerge; Italian stick loaves generously filled with antipasti and cut in 4, shared between families and friends...would have loved to try one, but you can't eat everything in sight, right?

It was also in Pignasecca, which for want of a better term I will describe as an "authentic" kind of a neighbourhood, that we had our own brush with personal safety. Or not, as it turned out to be, when a young man tapped B on the shoulder, alerting him to the fact he had dropped his bank card...so kind of the reverse of what we had been warned about...

Another favourite spot was close to our B&B in Piazza Vittoria. The simple Bar Vittoria had the best coffee (and we sampled many fantastic coffees), a patient guy behind the counter, who tolerated our very sketchy Italian and a very satisfying lunch of (my personal favourite) melanzane parmigiana and a local speciality of frittata di pasta — a fried pasta omelette. Simply very good.

Thankfully with all this good eating, there were plenty of opportunities to walk some of it off. We walked up to the impressive Sant Elmo castle to check out views across the city and the bay (there is also a funicular!).

Both Fernanda, our taxi driver and Joe, our pal from Eats & Treats in Bedford recommended a trip to Pizzeria Nennella. Perhaps its the singing or the €15 set menu that makes this place so popular, but the queues were just crazy, so that's another thing on the list for our next visit. However, we did get to visit Vincenzo Capuano, a contemporary pizzeria which was recommended by our hosts and was well worth a visit. The margherita was sublime (I opted to pay extra for mozzarella di buffalo and highly recommend this) and I loved the big pair of golden scissors for cutting up the pizzas!

Another favourite was NaBeer birrotecca, a micro bar in the bustling Spanish Quarter, where the engaging host served up a great taglieri of prosciutto, mozzarella, semi dried tomatoes, bread and rocket (€6), local artisanal beers and country music (and a screen for watching the match). The kind of eclectic/indie spot we really love.

So, would we go back to Naples? Like a shot! Naples is just so rich in terms of history and culture; you can visit the subterranean cholera cemetery, or the Borbone tunnels used for shelter during the war. Apparently there is also a Greek/Roman acqueduct under the city (?). You can also take a boat out to one of the islands, visit Pompeii or Herculanem, see the Caravaggio's etc, etc.

True to form, we may have got a little too hung up on hanging out, watching the street life, drinking coffee, eating and generally just trying to get under the skin of the place.... I like to think we may have succeeded in this mission.... There is so much good stuff here, I reckon a 5 day trip is warranted next time, or perhaps a week...

A few little observations...

Want to look like a local; drink espresso at the bar (you will be given sparkling water which is to be drunk first, as a palate cleanser).

Head down to the waterfront for aperitivo at sunset. Only eat mozzarella di buffala that is less than 2 days old.

Try the local speciality of pasta with potatoes and provolone; not nearly as strange (or carby) as it sounds.

Road signs/markings are merely "suggestions". After a while it all starts to make sense, but you will need to be assertive as a pedestrian.

Agree the taxi price before you get in and carry cash. Learn a few words of Italian — it always goes down well!

Don't forget it's a different system in Italy — pay the cashier first, then present your receipt at the bar to obtain your drink.

Buy a red devils horn (available everywhere) to ward off the "malocchio" or evil eye. Remember football is a religion and Maradona is God.