Taste of a place - Marseille

We read somewhere that Marseille is “not just soup* and soap!” and we're here to heartily concur with that statement (i would also add that Marseille is not just pastis and petanque either, but am happy to report that all of these local pastimes/obsessions are alive and well)....

This long, longed for trip (the first attempt thwarted by a global pandemic) was hastily arranged to fit in with work commitments. Not really knowing where to start in France's second largest city and after a successful trial run in Naples, a food tour seemed a good option to get ourselves “under the skin" quickly. After some consideration we opted for a guided tour of  St Julien & Noailles districts on our first day proper. The tour would incorporate food, street art, history, different cultures and all round good vibes. Perfect!

Our knowledgeable guide ( and former restaurateur) Coline shared her love of the area with its  abundant street art,  colourful shop fronts and diverse peoples.  We loved the vibrant produce market where everything was clearly not “for show". This was real life, real people where produce was at its ripest and price/value was clearly king. 

We loved the souk like feel of the myriad of shops selling basket ware, textiles and ceramics. The heady ambience of the area with the smell of spices and cooking hanging heavy in the air. It was colourful,  vibrant, noisy, a little disorientating  - some might say an assault on the senses – we would say “alive, intoxicating”...

Along the way, we learnt some good snippets of info including that the sardine is the emblem of the city. We heartily tucked into the freshest grilled sardines we have ever had at charming Tete d'ail. Here they were paired with a simple garnish of coriander, lemon and spring onion. (So good, we returned again for more sardines and their delicious homemade citronnade a still, crushed lemon drink that is pleasantly sharp – another Marseille tradition).

We tried panisse; a fried chickpea patty that can be enjoyed a number of ways but often with aioli. We had a personalised honey tasting at the bijou Delices d’anis and some delicious truffle sheep cheese at La Boite Noire a small artisanal deli where all the products are tasted blind. 

Of course there was pastis, numerous North African inspired sweet treats, a delicious cheese filled brik and perhaps most surprisingly, an ice cream shop Ego, where you serve yourself and pay for the ice cream by weight – what's not to love??? (we loved the black sesame, green cactus and saffron flavours!). What a day!

Fortunately we were staying within walking distance of the city centre and Vieux port where a lot of the action seems to be centred. So we got to walk off most of our excesses....Over the coming days we found what came to be our favourite haunts; Bar La Caravelle, a low key, vintage style bar with a small balcony and the best views over the old port. To be enjoyed for morning coffee and croissant or an early evening sundowner (and any time in between). 

Another favourite was no frills bar tabac “Vieux Port" which was as described, directly on the front of the port. This was just old school vibes, with the various generations of the family who owned it in evidence. Great, cold Leffe beer, perfectly served with some delicious dark provencal olives. Good people watching.

Special mention also for possibly the most low key bar in the area “Mon Bar". Located opposite the incredible, not to be missed vintage hardware shop/museum Maison Empereur which has been selling soap, toys, textiles and everything in between since the 1800s.....Mon Bar is the kind of lino clad place we love and would probably hang about in if we lived here – norm culture at its very best.

Other highlights to be found in this area are the  daily fish market  at the old port. A tradition which must be many centuries old. A colourful flower market underneath the beguiling mirror installation and a Sunday morning local produce market which saw dozens of small producers selling their individual wares. Lavender and soap was purchased here as was a pleasing slab of speciality Pissaladiere; somewhere between a pizza and a tart with sweet caramelised onions and those lovely olives (delighted to finally try this!).

Just behind the old port was Coquille Bitrot Martin,  a restaurant that was recommended to us by our tour guide. This place turned out to be fabulous and right up our street. The perfect combination of friendly service, low key vibes and delicious , fresh seafood. (The kind of place, we often dream of finding, but somehow always seem to fall short of). We visited several times and were bowled over by the flavours, particularly noteworthy were the smoked herring and potato salad, the eggs mayonnaise with bottarga, the wood grilled mussels, the moules mariniere, the shrimps, I could go on....should also make mention of the delicious fig financier and choc mousse with toasted hazelnuts dessert.....

Part way en route between the port and “our" neighbourhood of Corniche Kennedy lies Plage des catalans – a smallish beach area  with several bars, a particularly good pizzeria, Tripletta where we enjoyed Italian (as opposed to Marseille style) pizzettas  (the artichoke and truffle topping was incredible) with beach views. We also enjoyed a vermouth on the roof of gorgeously simple hotel Les Bods de Mer an architectural delight with excellent sunset views across the bay – highly recommended.

Some of the highlights in our locale of corniche kennedy – included a very good lebanese meal at La vallee du Liban; succulent lamb, irony tabbouleh, pillowy falafel. Fabulous Marseille style pizza at l'eau a la bouche. We opted for a simple cheese free Marinara (my favourite and a good gauge of quality, I reckon) and the local speciality of moitie-moitie (50% emmenthal cheese, 50% anchovy), very different to the Naples style pizza we are used to, but absolutely delicious nonetheless.

We also rated the coffee and croissant at Bar de la Grand Terrasse de Malmousque and loved the upmarket but wholesome offer at our local “epicerie”  Mout Chou – never have we been more surprised (or more delighted) to encounter a blue cheese scone straight from the oven early on a Tuesday morning...

There is so much great food to be recommended in Marseille, we managed to fit in a delicious Tunisian lunch. Never having been to Tunisia, its difficult to speak to its authenticity, but we truly felt transported by this meal; Tunisian chopped salad with tuna followed by couscous with succulent chicken& veg. This was accompanied by a steaming bowl of stock and a healthy jar of poky harissa to season it. This place was super  busy on a Monday lunchtime- seemingly popular with local folk.  We enjoyed the intimate, cheek by jowl experience of practically sitting on the laps of the tables either side of us – made for cosy vibes! Wholesome, nutritious and good value.

Along with great food there are some amazing sights and things to do in Marseille. A wander around colourful Le Panier, Marseille's oldest district is a lovely thing. Street art still in evidence, but this feels more upmarket with dozens of small boutiques and ateliers. There is history here to do with the “redemption" of sex workers, which we didn’t delve into....

Another thing of beauty and not to be missed is the incredible Le Mucem museum with its many diverse exhibitions. Personally, I would have been happy to pay the entrance fee just to wander around the incredible architecture of the museum itself. Don't miss this.

The tourist train from the old port up to the much loved Notre Dame basilica (affectionately known as La Bonne Mere as she looks out across the city) is highly enjoyable and popular. You also get to marvel at some beautiful coastal views on the way to the top for some truly breath-taking views across the city and the Mediterranean.

The 50 cents ferry across the old port is a fun way to spend a few minutes and give the legs a well earned rest. There’s a soap museum in the port where for 2.5 euro you get to fashion your own bar of soap!

There are numerous boat trips available at reasonable prices. The rugged Calanques natural  park is highly rated in terms of natural beauty. Unfortunately for us the sea was too rough on our visit, meaning all boat tours were cancelled. However, knowing that we will return this is one for our next visit made it easier to bear...

Top tip that we might have missed if we weren’t walking is the hidden gem of Vallon des Auffes port with its picturesque, colourful houses and boats. Nestled between Corniche Kennedy and Plage des Catalans you wont want to miss an al fresco “apero" at one of the several harbourside bars.

We would (and will) return to Marseille in a heartbeat. The city has received bad press over the years, but we found it to be relaxed and super friendly. The diverse, local folk are welcoming and were always charming and helpful if not somewhat bemused by our appalling French (they humoured us with good nature at all times). We cannot speak for the nightlife, for our days were so busy and full we were in bed by about 10 each night! (We will leave those reviews to other, more nocturnal souls)!

The city's official/unofficial motto is “Marseille bebè" from a song “C'est Marseille bebe" a popular collaboration charting the city's unique vibe.  After our brief visit we can only agree that Marseille is unique, singular, incomparable. We think in this instance, the marketing may be spot on.  

Come visit before the hoards arrive.....

Some practicalities –

We flew Ryanair Stansted to Marseille

At the airport we took the  A1 bus to Gare St Charles (10 euros per person. Every 10 minutes). From there we took a taxi to our accommodation (18 euros) but there were metro and bus options. (Our guide later advised Uber or Bolt may be preferable to taxi from the station, but we were happy with the service/price we received).

We used vrbo for the first time and found it worked well.  (Our accommodation was arty and eclectic with a view of the sea and open air theatre. The location was perfect for walking into the Old Port as well as being quiet. Our host was charming and super helpful).

It was a lovely walk to the old port via Plage des Catalans. Alternatively the bus no 83 to the old port seemed to run every 15 mins or so.  (When you get on tap bank card on the reader)

*soup. Before visiting Marseille we had pictured ourselves supping gallons of the local speciality bouillabaisse. However it soon became apparent that this once humble food of the poor has been “elevated" to a 70++ euro plate for the wealthy. This goes against pretty much everything Taste Adventures stands for, so unfortunately it was a firm “non" from us.